Law Kumar Mishra
I was one of the luckiest few who was selected in lottery draw by the ministry of external affairs for the 52 days (then) yatra after getting a confirmation telegram (no mobile or mail then), obtaining a medical certificate from Capital Hospital arranging money, making bank draft in favour of Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam, I landed in New Delhi and as directed on the booklet of the Yatra went to the China division of MEA.
After a long briefing, collection of passports and bank draft,the batchmates(32pilgrims) were taken for medical check up at ITBP hospital.Those finally selected were told to deposit Indian currency for conversion in to dollar and later Chinese currency (Yuan-Rs 6:1) and the Visa from China embassy.Some extra money for purchase of food items, medicines etc to our team leader(an IAS of Tripura cadre, Manohar Tyagi) was also given.Anti sun burn lotions, sunglasses were purchased.
After two days, we boarded UP roadways bus at hotel Janpath at 3am.Friends and relatives of pilgrims too camera to see us off,all were touching feet of the pilgrims (young or old) ,some had tears rolling down. As a curious reporter, I asked the reason and restricted them with request not to touch my feet, they replied “pata nahi AAP log Laut kar aayenge ki nahi Bhagwan ke pass ja rahe hain“. Their proverbial words proved true as the entire batch of pilgrims which consisted of Protima Bedi , ITBP doctors and jawans with porters perished in landslides at the Malpa camp.
After passing through Nainital, Kathgodam, Pithoragarh,Almora ,first evening stay was at Kaushani.Next morning after prayers atJageshwar,our next halt was at Dharchula on the banks of Kali Ganga river on India-Nepal border.Since,there was no STD Booth on our side,we went to Nepal for literally making our last call (the opportunity to make another STD call would only on return ). The climb started early morning from Tawaghat and after overnight stay in ITBP camps at Narayan ashram, Navidag, Sirkha, Gala, Bundhi, Malpa, Gunji,Munshiyari,we celebrated Independence day at Kalapani,where emigration formalities were completed.At Lipulekh pass, the previous batch led by a Bihar cadre IAS, P Narayanan returned and the fresh batch was literally pushed down on the glaciers in China.
We stayed at Takhlakot (the mythological Kuber capital) where we exchanged dollars into China currency.In China jurisdiction,we went to the Ram temple with Tibetan tourism official working as liaison officer.We celebrated Rakshabandhan at Mansarovar,where Pandit KC Chaturvedi,ADG of Gujarat police and a team member, performed puja.We trekked to Mount Kailash after offerings prayers at Dolma Pass(Highest peak) ,where belongings of forefathers are offered.Some of us went down to Durga kund to collect water from the pond,where it is believed Parwati used to take bath.
We were stayed in the make shift camps (old monasteries) ,prepared tea,coffee ,food in turn for ourselves,washed the used utensils in different groups, without any distinction of caste or wealth.We had in our team ADG Chaturvedi,inspector Wagh,doctors from Ahmedabad and Jamnagar,scientist couple from Mumbai – Sunil Mishra and his wife (BARC), Ramakrishnan from Tamil Nadu, Mrs Nair from Kerala,an NRI from Canada, Ms Joshi from Pune, Mr Chawala from Haryana,Bipin Sawla, Mehortra from Mumbai and Mr Arora from New Delhi. It was mini India.
I must appreciate the services of Yaks and donkeys (khachars) who were loyal to their duties, never misplaced, never abandoned us and reached with our luggage at our camps.
I performed my duties as Times of India reporter there too.I used to write my articles by hand ,put it in a cover and hand over to the ITBP commandants for delivery at Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg,marked to Mr Dileep Padgaonkar.One of the reports was handed over to the team leader of a previous batch who met at Lipulekh pass,another to an IB official at Gunji,where there was a branch of State Bank of India and a post office too.Since,Indo-China trade started after a long gap on this route in August 1992 ,my reports dateline-Taklakot,were published on front page of Delhi edition.
We never missed morning bath even in freezing temperature.Had dip in Holy Mansarovar daily (now, perhaps stopped) on all four sides.Colour of water changed on all directions with the sunrays overlooking Kailash.In our child hood,we had read marriage cards with “Manas ke Rajhansh tum bhul na jaana aane ko.”We found SWANS in abundance in the lake.A dog showed us the path to Kailash for four days,then suddenly disppeared,we met sadhus who had no nails in the make shift camps.They claimed they were in the caves of Himalayas for 26, 27 years and survived ondry fruits which we pilgrims handed them over as gift (as directed by MEA in our briefing).
One will definitely get the divine feelings and divine touch in the jurisdiction of Lord Shiva and the lake from where mighty Brahamputra too originates. Throughout the journey, the mineral water from the mountains is available for you.
(The author is a senior journalist based in Patna and has a long tenure working with The Times of India)
